Varambon and Grand Crêt d'Eau

South of the National Natural Reserve of the High Jura mountain range, this discovery trail provides an understanding of low-walls and goyas, explains the disappearance of old altitude villages, makes a pit stop at the Varambon chalet and allows hikers to visit the exhibit on the chalet (booklet available at the Bellegarde-sur-Valserine tourist office).

At the far south-east of the Jura massif is the long Jura mountain range. From the Rhône water gap to the south, to the Swiss border to the North, and overlooking the Lake Geneva basin, the high Jura mountain range separates the Pays de Gex from the valley of the Valserine. Created in 1993, the National Natural Reserve ensures the preservation of mountainous environments that could be altered by development and potentially high tourist numbers. The reserve aims to ensure a balance between farming and forest exploitation and preserving the wealth of natural heritage in this area. The diversity of vegetation groups, in various colours and environments, are part of the originality of these high mountain range landscapes.

This stone is all that remains of the low wall that once protected an old goya, and which prevented cattle from polluting the water. Several stories claim to explain the name given to this strange stone. While some say that this was where the surrounding lords used to pay their taxes, part of which included a portion of their summer cheese production, others say that this stone served as a resting place when men used to transport cheese on their backs (excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).

The mountain pasture’s naked landscape is the result of the secular actions of men and herds. They cleared all the forests that once almost-entirely covered the Jura mountains. Only the highest summits escaped the forest after the melting of glaciers(excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).

In the middle of the Alps mountain range, directly opposite you, is the Mont Blanc. Culminating at 4,810 meters, this is the highest summit in western Europe. Its white shape, which extends to the north (left) towards the Aiguille du Midi and the Aiguilles de Chamonix, makes it easy to recognise.

The Crêt de la Goutte, at 1621 metres in altitude, is the highest point of the Grand Crêt d’Eau. During good weather, it offers a superb panorama. The Jura ranges are replaced by the plateaux of Bugey and the Alpes mountain range with its snowy summits (excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).

These low walls were built during the 19th century to set the borders for the mountain pastures purchased by well-off owners from Collonges or as dividers between the forest and the mountain pastures (at the time, herds were not allowed to wander into the woods). Today, these walls are home to a particular variety of fauna. Reptiles, birds and mustelids alike are attracted to these structures (excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).

As states in its name, the citril finch is a true mountain-dweller. In France, it can be found in the Vosges, the Jura, the Massif Central, the Alpes and the Pyrenees. It usually settles on the upper boundaries of coniferous forests, in wooded meadows or in alpine lawns. Very sociable, it likes to live in a community; and it can often be identified from its very characteristic chirps when moving in small groups. This bird is gradually disappearing in the lower altitudes of the High-Jura Park and is now almost exclusively concentrated in the high mountain range. One of the results of climate change ?

You may see the martagon lily in bloom in the summer, with its high stems that can reach up to 1.5 metres in height! But be careful, picking and pulling out these plants is forbidden as they are protected by law. We also remind you that in the Natural reserve, you are prohibited from picking up any animal, floral or geological items (excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).

“Goyas” - natural-looking artificial ponds - are scattered across the Grand Crêt d’Eau mountain pastures. In spring, when the snow melts, these goyas fill with water. A myriad of alpine newt tadpoles can be seen wriggling here in the morning sun. The quick absorption of water by the karstic sub-soil and the lack of sources on summits led men to create these watertight reserves for livestock (excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”). 

Varambon forest is very old. It is primarily comprised of firs trees, spruces, beech trees, maple trees and rowan trees, and was partly used for livestock. Managed according to the selection system by foresters during the 19th and 20th centuries, this forest is still of major biological interest. As a part of the National Natural Reserve created in 1993, it must remain a calm and tranquil area to encourage the western capercaillie, the hazel grouse and many other birds to continue to come (excerpt of the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).

In a small depression, on the edge of the woods, many nettles have now grown. Nettles are nitrophilous plants (meaning they love nitrate) and they grow in the ruins of old mountain cabins, feeding several centuries later on the remnants of animal’s bedding (excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).

The sizeable roof of this chalet protrudes from the middle of this mountain pasture and is a place of shelter during times of rain or fog. Built during the first half of the 19th century, the Varambon chalet is the last remnant of the mountain pasture on the Grand Crêt D’Eau. It once housed a central kitchen in which the cheesemaker made Comté or Bleu de Gex. The two rooms located to the north served to keep milk fresh (the dairy) and to store cheese (the attic). Two stables to the south, which are now open to hikers during the day (and hold exhibits on the life of shepherds in the large stable), were home to around sixty dairy cows, young cattle and pigs, who were fattened up with whey (excerpt from the booklet: “Au fil de l’alpage” or “Through the alpine pasture”).