UNESCO Global Geopark Famenne-Ardenne : Geotrail of Marche-en-Famenne

Starting from the car park on Place de l’Étang, the trail first takes you through the narrow lanes of the capital of Famenne, the delightful town of Marche-en-Famenne. From the early 1970s to the present day, the town has undergone an active and highly successful programme of urban renovation, retaining all the treasures inherited from the architecture of the past and adding new, modern and artistic touches.You will have plenty of opportunity to experience its charms for yourself, thanks to its narrow streets, characterful historic buildings, pedestrian zones, tree-shaded squares, and frequent fountains and sculptures. Not surprising, then, that in 2011 the town of Marche should be named Belgium’s winner in the European Destinations of Excellence (EDEN) competition, in recognition of its work on rehabilitating its many sites of interest and preserving its built heritage.

These traces of a fortified wall, recognisable by their lighter colour, were uncovered during the improvement work on the boulevard, and now form an integral part of the footbridge. This footbridge is in itself a powerful symbol of the past, representing the former allure or walkway once used by the sentries. The four rounded spaces are a modern-day representation of the turrets that would have stood here in the Middle Ages. You will also note that the front of each of the turrets features a sculpture. The four sculptures represent the four traditional trades for which the town of Marche-en-Famenne was famous in those days:the lace-maker (dentellière), the sweep (ramoneur), the tanner (tanneur) and the brewer (brasseur), names still given to four of the town-centre streets to this day. On your left, in pride of place in the centre of the roundabout, stands a work by artist Serge Gangolf, expressing the essence of the town’s spirit over the past 40 years. Its title, “Point de rencontre”, or meeting point, is a symbol of the meeting between two worlds, the old fortified town and today’s world of modernity and contemporary art.

This is the tunnel that will take you the entrance of the Fond des Vaulx (see map). Justbefore the tunnel, at the foot of the railway embankment, you will see a water flowing along a channel of embedded stones. This is a resurgence, through which emerges all the water from the Fond des Vaulx karst system that you will be retracing on this trail. This small valley, though which the Marchette stream runs, lies close to the town centre of Marche and covers an area of 25 hectares. Its steep valley sides and “untamed” character is in stark contrast to the expanses of the Marche plains. In addition to natural and geological attractions, this is a spot famed for the many legends and mysteries that make up the folklore of Marche. The Fond des Vaux is a picturesque valley, often presenting as a dry valley despite the presence of a river much further upstream. To understand how the water disappears, we need to look at the rocks beneath our feet. The valley is to a large extent carved out of Devonian limestones, shown in violet on the map, but originates on the sandstone plateau south of the locality of Agrismont. When the stream reaches the limestones, it plunges underground through the swallow-holes frequently referred to as chantoirsin Walloon. The water then flows in the form of underground rivers until it returns to the surface via resurgences (karst springs). When swollen by heavy rainfall, the flow of water partially resumes its surface course. The system of underground cavities is known as karst. The cavities are the result of a long, slow process of dissolution of the rock over millions of years, a process known as karstification.

This is more or less the halfway point on the Fond des Vaulx route and here we find the most iconic karst phenomenon of all: the Trotti aux Fosses chasm, a vast collapse cavity (an underground space, the roof of which has gradually collapsed to the ground, Marche-en-Famenne Famenne-Ardenne unesco global Geopark 13 forming a huge well some 15 metres deep. The resulting limestone scree was gradually dissolved by the underground river beneath the Fond des Vaulx, accessible only to cavers.

You are now in the village of Waha, mainly and justifiably famous for its church and its stained glass windows. The church of Saint-Etienne, a remarkable Romanesque church listed as a Major Heritage of Wallonia site, is one of the oldest Romanesque churches to be found in Belgium and the only one to have retained its dedication stone commemorating the consecration of the church on 20 June 1050 by Théoduin, Bishop of Liège from 1048 to 1075. It is surrounded by its ancient cemetery and sheltered by a centuries-old linden tree, beneath which a statue of a monk, the Moine Blanc Curé, kneels in prayer. If you go inside the church, you will find a number of other remarkable works, such as the ornamental stone bearing the arms of Philippe II, as well as the arms of Luxembourg and of the town of Marche, the 16th century baptismal fonts, a number of 18th century reliquaries and a fragment of a 16th century crucifix. Observe carefully and you will notice a number of sculptures signed by the mysterious 16th century sculptor known as the Master of Waha. Other sculptures and works by the same artist are on display at the Famenne Art Museum. This rich heritage is nobly served by the stunning display of colours in the stained glass windows designed by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon, depicting the martyrdom of Saint Stephen, patron saint of the parish. At the back of the church, an audiovisual display pays tribute to the work of the artist and comments on some of the most noteworthy items of the church’s heritage.

150 metres along Rue du Commerce, you will see a magnificent building, yellowish in colour, on your left. This is the Château Jadot, a wonderful illustration of an architectural style popular from1850 to 1950. This style of building was the symbol of a prosperous and well-endowed bourgeoisie of days now long gone. Opposite the chateau, make the acquaintance of the statue of Li p’tit chufleu (the little whistler), also known as the Urchin of Marche. Behind his outwardly angelic appearance lurks a rebellious soul. He symbolises the spirit of Marche, impertinent, mischievous and gently mocking. The statue is the work of sculptor Louis Noë, modelled, it is said,on a child of his acquaintance.

The Famenne Art Museum contains works dating from prehistory down to modern art. Its collection retraces the entire history of the Famenne, including the Merovingian and Carolingian periods, richly illustrated by the remarkable collections unearthed during digs at Wellin and Hamoir. A significant collection of works by the artist known only as the Master of Waha showcases the unknown artist’s talents as a sculptor of timeless genius and an ambassador of Late Gothic sculpture. Another space is given over to explaining the geological and historic features of the Famenne, and of the town of Marche in particular, its glory days and its times of misfortune. There is a splendid model showing the town as it would have been in 1600. One room of the museum is entirely devoted to lace-making, a long established tradition in March, and another to the site of the Monument, a 17th century sanctuary. As well as covering all these historic aspects, the museum also has a whole section devoted to Contemporary Art. The museum can of course be visited, so don't hesitate to go through the entrance gate and venture into this wonderful building. The FAM is a partner of the Geopark Famenne-Ardenne. Our partners are labelled "Geopark Famenne-Ardenne", a territory itself recognised by UNESCO.

Quartier Latin is a partner of the Geopark Famenne-Ardenne. Our partners are labelled "Geopark Famenne-Ardenne", a territory itself recognised by UNESCO. What is it you do? “Ideally situated in the centre of the small town of Marche-en-Famenne in Belgium, the Quartier Latin Hotel & Restaurant is a four-star hotel complex occupying a listed 18th century building that was once a Jesuit church. Steeped in history yet undeniably elegant, the Quartier Latin blends the timelessness of the past with modern-day technology. More than just a hotel, our establishment is an invitation to complete relaxation, offering under one roof a gourmet restaurant, a spa and a spacious terrace.” What prompted you to seek “Famenne-Ardenne UNESCO Global Geopark” status? “The Quartier Latin is committed to a nature-friendly approach that sets out to promote all that this region has to offer. We organize nature-based breaks, featuring anything from outings on electric bikes or in classic cars accompanied by roadbooks, to tracking the calls of rutting stags, foraging for mushrooms and ethical fishing.” What is your approach to sustainable development and environment-friendly practices? “We give pride of place to the regional produce we serve in our restaurant. We create jobs locally and make sure we also work with local producers. We realize that is still difficult for a hotel to adopt fully eco-friendly attitudes, but we make every effort to keep our consumption to a minimum. We also have a waste sorting system in place.” Gaëlle Masson, marketing Contact details: Rue des Brasseurs, 2 6900 Marche-en-Famenne 084 32 17 13 contact@quartier-latin.be www.quartier-latin.be

You are now in Place Roi Albert. In the centre of the square, you will see a well-known figure in Marche, serving as the centrepiece of the fountain. The figure is that of George Peret, Marche’s last town crier, who died in 1980. In his day, he would appear on the streets of the town, decked in his traditional costume of blue smock and canvas cap, to cry out all the latest news to the populace. Before you stands the very fine church of Saint Remacle. A brochure about the church of Saint-Remacle in Marche-en-Famenne, available from the Famenne-Ardenne Tourist Centre (FR/NL/EN/DE - €1.00).